Tampico, Mexico

I've been a lot of places in Mexico - Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Merida, Campeche, Tulum - just to name a few and none of them was anything like Tampico. Located in in the state of Tamaulipas, this is not the Mexico you see in brochures and in glossy travel magazines. This is a city where people live and work and tourists don't often visit.

A taste of Tampico
I found myself in Tampico on a whim for a week in May to visit my mother who was teaching at an international school there and it was an eye-opening look at a totally new side of Mexico, one that I had never seen. It's drab, there are three Walmarts, the place to be on Friday nights is - I kid you not - TGI Fridays (which I sadly didn't get to) and at first glance, there isn't much to do other than hit the Walmart and then fight the crowds at the aforementioned TGI Fridays. But dig beyond the surface and you find some charm.

So if you're wondering what to do if you ever take find yourself in Tampico here are a few suggestions.

Hit the beach

Adults-only pool, Club Maeva Miramar

Miramar beach, a wide 10km stretch of soft caramel-hued sand is fantastic for walking. Food stalls line one end of the beach offering up the catch of the day, along with cold drinks and snacks. There are palapas with lounge chairs you can rent, but if you really want to relax, you can buy a day pass from beachfront hotel Club Maeva Miramar. The all-inclusive pass includes all meals and drinks (booze, too. Yay) and will run you about $56. You can also buy half-day passes. The grounds are pretty extensive with three pools, bars and a restaurant, but head straight for the adult's only area with a gorgeous infinity pool and small swim-up bar. It can get crowded but no kids means more peace and quiet. Grab a lounge chair and order up a michelada (delicious Mexican beer cocktail) and relax. The only issue is that food here isn't great. OK, it's subpar at best but you can always fill up on beer and stick to bread and cheese like I did.

Visit the market
No matter where I go in the world I love markets and always make a point to check out as many as I can. I love the chaotic nature of markets, the peek into local life, the energy and the sights and sounds (but not always the smells). Tampico's market didn't disappoint. It's loud, it's overflowing in colorful piles of produce, there are stalls selling everything from souvenirs to clothing to pet food and there's a maze of alleys just hawking tacos, tortas and other local favourites. Many avocados were purchased and later consumed. Tampico has really good avocados.





Wander the historic downtown area

Pink gazebo

While most of Tampico resembles a sprawling suburb totally void of any character whatsoever, the downtown area is where the city comes alive. Faded yet once colourful neo-classical buildings line the streets, sharing space with carts selling fruit, shoe shine stands and shops. I especially loved the Plaza de Armas, a square boasting a massive gazebo built from pink stone and looking like some sort of space ship crossed with a cathedral. It's hard to miss thanks to the distinct shade of bubble gum (or Pepto-Bismol) pink and makes for a great photo. There are two snack bars in the square selling fresh juices and light snacks if you're hungry. It gets really hot in Tampico so the juice will be welcome. The cathedral of Tampico and Liberty Plaza also worth a look but there's no need to go with a plan, just wander at your own pace. When you need a break head to Degas Café for a coffee or beer on their cute patio where you can people watch while sipping your beverage of choice (beer for me) and nibbling on the commentary snack mix.
 
Unless my mom was still working there I wouldn't go back to Tampico, but I'm still glad I went. It was a side of Mexico I haven't see and reminded my why I love to travel - to see what you don't expect and be surprised by what you see.


Have you been to Tampico? What did you think?

Notes On Travel Regret: Part 2

I've blogged about travel regret before, about that feeling of missing out, of not having quite enough time to see everything you want to see or do everything you want to do. The feeling of not having made the right call, for whatever reason. For some people there is no regret (logically I know regret is pointless, but emotionally? Well, that's a different story), but for others, there are places missed, cities longed for, decisions analyzed and questioned after the fact.

Off to India...or not

Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur

In the summer, around late August, my ex-partner and I (not ex at the time) were talking about going to India for two months, February and March. Up until this point I wasn't sure he was going to want to travel at all during the winter, and I was worried about this. Then he brought up India, something I'd mentioned at various other points  during the year and that he never seemed very keen on. But now, he was interested. He wanted to take cooking classes and eat street food and consume as much vegetarian Indian food as he could get his hands on. I got the Lonely Planet from the library and started reading him random facts about various cities, about places we "had" to see and what we absolutely couldn't miss. We were excited. We were united. Things were good.

Fear
And then I chickened out. For a lot of reasons, but the one I most often refer to is that I knew I would be working while we traveled (call it digital nomad light) and that I really needed a reliable internet connection the whole time or my work would suffer. (or so I believed). From what I'd read there was no guarantee of the speedy surfing I was used to in many other places I'd travelled so I panicked. In retrospect I should have done more research, asked around, reached out to people who had been there, not worried so much - but I didn't. I assumed it might just be better (safer) to go someplace else, and so I suggested Malaysia. But let's face it, I was also scared of India itself, which I'm not proud of.

The regret kicks in

Gardens by the Bay, Singapore

Don't get me wrong, two months in Malaysia and Singapore (with side trips to Hong Kong and Vietnam) was great and I had a memorable trip filled with phenomenal food and unforgettable experiences, but I regret not going to India. I can't help but equate the dissolution of my long term partnership a mere three weeks after returning with the "not going", with all of that fear. Of course there were many other issues that led to my  becoming a solo traveler, but I now equate my inability to move past travel fears with the end of my relationship. Silly? Maybe. Weird? probably, but I can't help but wonder if things would have turned out differently had I dove headfirst into a challenge rather than back away. I can't help but ask myself what it really meant when I vetoed India and switched up the itinerary. I have regret and lots of it.

I  know it will pass and I know I am not being logical, necessarily, but what happened does drive home the point that giving into fear isn't often a good thing. In travel or in love.

What are your biggest travel regrets?

4 Important Things Travel Has Taught Me

Aside from the usual perks of travel: the excitement, the adventure, the escape from reality, there are also a few other things packing a bag and hopping on a plane can offer. I've learned a few pretty important lessons from my limited travels so far.

You get out of life what you put in

Market, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Nowhere has this lesson really made itself known, with clarity, like it does when I travel. For all the times you get to a new place and say "wow, this is incredible" without having to put any work into your enjoyment (yes, sometimes enjoyment takes work), there will also be a time where you say, "whoa, what was I thinking when I got off the bus here?!" 

When that happens you need to kick up the effort a notch, look for the good in something that on the surface isn't so great. That lesson translates easily to everyday life because life isn't always packed with rainbows and amazing job offers and surprise financial windfalls. You need to give some to get, just like you do on those travel days where you just want to go home, or you're not as enamored as you'd like to be with your newest destination.  Smile, try something new, introduce yourself to someone - you never know how even the smallest amount of effort can change your day or your path for the better.

It always pays to try something new

Little India, Georgetown, Penang

Whether it's a new food, a crazy-sounding drink, sport, activity or class, trying something new when you travel is an essential part of the overall experience. I find that even if I don't like that food or that activity, I always feel better about myself and my travels after having given it a shot. It makes me feel alive. I can't say I'm as good at trying new things at home as I am when I'm travelling, but the lesson has stuck and I know that the more I push myself, the more I put myself out there and say yes to new experiences (no matter how scary or outside my own version of "normal" they may be) the better I'll feel and the more I'll get out of life.

Planning has it's place but so does spontaneity
I've written before about how I'm more of a planner than a "let's just do it" type of person, but travel has taught me that you can be both (really). I always thought that in order to be defined as a "traveller" I needed to be more spontaneous, more willing to hop on any bus or train, or change direction on a whim, but I've since learned you need to do what's right for you, based on the moment and the situation that you're in. If you need to plan, if that's going to make your travel experience richer and you'll get to see more of a certain place with some strategies in place, then do it. But if you have the luxury of flexibility, don't feel pulled in any particular direction and are more interested in just "being" somewhere rather than experiencing specific sites, put the guide and itinerary away. It's totally OK to have a split travel personality - I do. The planning versus spontaneity rule also applies well to non-travel life.

Fear doesn't have to be limiting

Sarawak river, Kuching

Travelling is something I love, but it also scares the crap out of me. The tingle of excitement I feel when I start researching a new destination turns to a sliver of fear creeping up my back as soon as I book that flight. Yet I still get on that plane, still go wherever I've planned on going - despite that initial fear of the unknown. I used to think fear meant you shouldn't do something (and I know in many cases it does) but there are a lot of times fear is holding you back from something amazing - in my case, travel. If I were to stop planning or decided not to book that flight just based on those stirrings of fear, I would lose out. But by  acknowledging the fear without giving it power, I get to grow and experience something great.

What has travel taught you so far? I'd love to know.

6 Awesome Things About Travelling Alone

In lieu of my recent post about shifting to solo travel, I thought it very apropos to write about the good points of travelling alone. And there are many, despite the adjustment period required in getting to that point might take.

You answer to NO ONE

Fairy Stream in Mui Ne, Vietnam

Sometimes you just want to do what you want to do, without asking if it's OK, or finding a more suitable time to do it, or knowing that the person doing it with you has no interest in whatever attraction or site you've dragged them to. Not to mention, if there's somewhere you have absolutely no interest in going (or feigning interest in), you don't have to go. It can be quite liberating to wake up in the morning and know you can do (or not do) whatever it is YOU want - and the debate or discussion stops there.

You can be cranky
Let's face it, as exciting and fun as travel is, it can take its toll on you (or at least it does on me) and when that happens, I get cranky. But when you travel with a partner, it can be tough to show your cranky side (we all do it, but how much of it you show can be the difference between an OK day and a terrible one for both of you). Travelling solo and feeling like crawling back under the covers or having a quiet day of wandering to ease the bad mood? Go for it.

There's an added element of excitement
Travelling as a couple (or with a friend) can be great but for me, it was always easier to rely on my partner to step in a make a decision when I didn't want to, to find our way when we took a wrong turn (or several), to help me feel more comfortable. But when you travel alone, everything is up to you and not having a safety net of a fellow traveller, although scary at first, is exciting. When I landed in Paris alone, when I landed in Barcelona alone, when I landed in Copenhagen alone (with no idea where I was going), I was scared but also totally exhilarated. The idea of "I can do it - alone!" is exciting no matter where you're travelling.

It can be easier to meet people

Meeting a new "friend" in Dalat, Vietnam

Though you might think that solo travellers blend into the wallpaper, being alone in a bar, hotel lobby or hostel common area can make it easier for people to approach you and for you to reach out to others. Travelling with someone makes it easy to be in your own cocoon of two that from the outside, appears somewhat closed off to people you night encounter. Whereas, a solo traveller sipping a beer on a patio, might be easier to say hello to.

It forces you out of your comfort zone
You know that scary aspect of solo travel I mentioned, it has another benefit (yes, fear can be a good thing). Travelling alone pushes you outside of your comfort zone. Lost? Find your way. Not sure where to stay or for how long? Figure it out. Feeling overwhelmed? Learn how to handle the ups and downs of travel without a safety net. That might sound harsh, but the more you accomplish on your own, the more you prove to yourself how much you can actually do.

It helps you learn about yourself
There's nothing like a solo trip (whether a week or a month or more) to teach you a few new things about yourself. When you travel alone, you're forced to think on your feet and make decisions without the luxury of someone to bounce ideas off of, which can show you new things about not only how you think, but what you  like, what bugs you and what makes you happiest. Most importantly, solo travel can teach you just how strong you can be. Of course, it can also teach you a few things you might not like about yourself, but that too, is an important part of that whole "life" learning curve that never stops.

*Note, pictures above are not from solo trips (I don't have too many of those...yet).

What's you favourite thing about solo travel? I'd love to hear about it. 

Unplanned Travel Detours: Vietnam Edition

As I'm sure I've mentioned, I'm a planner. I like the idea of being totally spontaneous and doing away with routes, itineraries and travel guides, but ultimately, at my core, I need a plan or at least a semblance of one in order to feel comfortable. But that doesn't mean plans don't change, or that every trip taken isn't without its surprises.

Ho Chi Minh City

Hey, let's fly to Vietnam for 10 days
February and March of this year were spent mostly in Malaysia and Singapore with a three night bonus-stopover in Hong Kong on the way home. But somewhere along the line, around mid-February we decided to add Vietnam into the mix. We were in Malaysia during Chinese New Year, which meant a lot of hotels, buses, ferries, etc. were booked up well in advance. We were struggling to find decent rooms and transportation when we wanted it. So we were feeling a little stuck and. The fix: Leave Malaysia and try a new country on for size.

We had 10 days to play with before meeting some friends in Kuala Lumpur so we decided to spend them in Vietnam. It was unexpected, it was spontaneous and it was something we would never do in "real life" but while traveling, the decision was made within an hour over a beer in cafe in Penang.

Saigon green beer

Spontaneity can be fun
At home, I like my routine. I'm not adverse to last-minute plans but if I already have my comfy pants on, you better have tickets to something good (or be offering free booze) to get me out of the house. So you can see how a totally random side trip to a country not on our original itinerary would be a bit outside my comfort zone. We did this last year with a side trip to Cambodia and it was a great decision, but I really didn't anticipate any similar moves this time around. The verdict: It was an amazing 10 days spent in Ho Chi Minh City, Mui Ne and Dalat (full post on these coming soon). We couldn't get enough and were actually sad to leave at the end of it all.

The lesson for me in all this is that there is a place for spontaneity and last-minute switches to plans and "hey, let's go here" moments when you travel. If fact, I bet some people would say travel is all about those unexpected changes to plans (or better yet, not planning at all).

How spontaneous are you when you travel? I've love to know!

If You Didn't Tweet It, Were You Really There?

One of the things that crossed my mind numerous times on my most recent trip was how much of a role social media updates play in our travels. Full disclosure: I often had this thought while getting ready to post travel pictures to Twitter or Facebook. It got me thinking about travel now (when you can basically share every aspect of your journey no matter where you are) to travel before you could tweet every bus ride taken, meal ordered and beer enjoyed.

So, if you didn't tweet it, were you really there? 
Of course you were there, in a literal sense, but what do the constant updates do for the traveler? We say they're just to ensure friends and family back home are kept up to date on what we're doing (and yes this is a huge bonus of being able to be online where you are), but are all those shots of the beach, lovely meals, interesting sights and remote jungles really necessary to let people know I'm doing OK? No, an email would suffice for that, or a quick "landed in Singapore" update on Facebook.

Comments, re-tweets and "likes"
Let's face it, photos of your great street food snack (along with the 35 comments it gets), or the re-tweets of your tweet about something everyone else wishes they were doing somehow boost the experience itself. You can relive that amazing bite, or unforgettable moment every time someone comments, "likes", re-tweets, etc. 

I thought about whether I could go a whole trip (whether for two weeks or two months) without updating to Facebook or Twitter - I thought that if I could manage it, that might somehow be a worthy travel challenge to undertake. But in reality, I want to share what I'm doing because I'm thrilled that I'm doing it and proud of myself for making my travel dreams happen. I'd also like to think that someone might be inspired to travel or seek out something I've seen or done based on an update I've posted. 

What about you? How much of a role does social media play in your travels?

Thoughts on Travel as a Confidence Booster

By nature, I often lack confidence. By that I mean I have always second-guessed myself and my decisions, for as long as I can remember. I am also somewhat lazy and have no problem getting someone else to reach things I can't get to and open jars that won't budge. There's also that pesky issue of having very little in the way of a sense of direction. I constantly rely on my significant other to lead the way and know where to go no matter where we are. It's easy to get set in your ways, people and I'm living proof. But travel has a weird way of flipping who you think you are, upside down

Ah...Paris

Getting un-settled
The first thing I noticed upon landing in Paris several years ago, alone, with one suitcase and a fuzzy photo of the girl I would be meeting upon arrival (to sublet her room), was that I didn't have anyone to rely on. It was all me and it was terrifying. But as the days wore on, and I took off every day to explore, I got less and less terrified. Finding where I wanted to go became a no-brainer and asking for what I wanted was indeed turning into second nature. I didn't get lost -- I found every museum, gallery, cheese shop and metro stop with no problem. I did what I wanted and when, without worrying about whether it was "the best idea" or if it was what I "should" be doing. Very different than at home.

Going in alone

Hiking the Bolivan Plateau, Laos

Not only did I get on a plane to brave Paris solo for two months, I also hit up a few other European cities without company. This isn't something new and loads of people do it all the time, many of them much younger than when I was traveling alone, but that's not my point. I want to stress how OK I was to hop over to Barcelona or Copenhagen, whip out a map and find my way to my hotel. I get lost in my own neighbourhood at home but could somehow navigate a new city alone without ending up stranded, mugged or in police custody. For some reason, I just *knew* I would be OK, whereas at home, there is so much more room for self doubt. What is it about travel that seems to wipe out the doubt? I'm not saying there isn't fear (there is), but I there's also more trust that everything is going to turn out fine.

A more open mind
Lately I've been travelling with my boyfriend so not solo, but there's still some very distinct changes that come over each of us when we're away. At home we have routines, the places we always go and the places we talk about going, but never do. We're creatures of habit and don't often try new restaurants and bars, or make spur-of-the-moment decisions. But when we travel, we're up for anything. I realize on a limited trip there's an innate desire to make the most of the time you have, but it still amazes me that while traveling we won't think twice about going into that bar, or trying that restaurant or going on that hike and (in the boyfriend's case), jumping off of that waterfall.

Finding a balance
So far, I've only been able to retain that travel-confidence in very small bits. I know everyone's mentality on vacation is different, whether spending a week at an all-inclusive resort, or several months abroad, but I would love to figure out a way to hold onto some of that magic that happens while away, once I get home.

How are you different while travelling? Do tell!

Notes on Travel Regret

No trip taken is ever something to regret. Even if you didn't love (or even like) where you went, you still likely learned something about yourself along the way. But, I think you can still lament over paths not taken and locations overlooked. Case in point: when we were in Thailand we didn't go to Chiang Mai. Yes, you read that right; we were in Thailand and skipped over everyone's favourite spot. Sigh.

Choices (or, you can't see everything)

Nong Khai, Thailand

Originally, we were going to head north after Bangkok, spend a chunk of time in Chiang Mai and then go into Laos. On our second day in Ayutthaya, my boyfriend and I decided to switch up the plan and instead head northeast, towards Nong Khai and then into Laos, with every intention of still going to Chiang Mai, just not right then.

A (bigger) change of plans
After five days in Nong Khai (a nice little chilled out town I really liked) we again started talking about our travel plans. Do we do the Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang route and then back into the north of Thailand? That was the original idea, but I wasn't really keen on Vang Vieng. I'm sure it has its merits, but being 32 I wasn't into the idea of drunken tubing or partying with 19-year olds (no offense to 19-year olds). The boyfriend felt similarly and had yet to get really "excited" about going to Laos at all. We then met another couple  who told us their favourite spot in Laos was the 4000 Islands. This was the straw that shifted the camel's plans (er, you get the idea).

The new plan

The next day (after poached eggs at a cute British cafe I can't remember the name of), we walked along the waterfront, gazing at Laos in the distance and drafted a new plan. We would not go north, but instead head south after Vientiane, into Tha Khaek (dusty town with lots of stray dogs you need to watch out for), Pakse (go to hike the gorgeous Bolivan Plateau. So beautiful) and then to the 4000 Islands (SO amazing). And then... into CAMBODIA, which was never part of the travel plan at all. So in essence, we sacrificed Chiang Mai for a chance to see Cambodia.

Vientiane, Laos

Going with your gut
Plans are great -- to a point. They can also trip you up and lead you away from the path you are better off being on. My gut said, "let's do this; let's head south instead and squeeze in Cambodia." My brain said, "but, but, but..." and then my boyfriend sealed the deal with the deciding vote to head south. I fell madly in love with the 4000 Islands and with Cambodia. Cambodia is a special place that really swept me off my feet and I wouldn't have got to have that experience if we had stuck with "the plan".

Feelings now
Well. now that we're back I do get random pangs of wishing we'd made it to Chaing Mai. I regret not seeing the north of Thailand while we were there and that kind of smarts now that we're back from the trip. As much as I love the trip we ended up taking (which I know is the point), I still think of the "what ifs" and the "should haves". I've read so many great things about Chiang Mai -- it's cheap, it's easy to get around, there are so many temples, it's a haven for vegetarians....and on and an. I hate to think I was so close, but never quite got there. Next time!

How do you deal with travel regret?

Cooking Class in Thailand

One of the things I really wanted to do while in Thailand was take a cooking class. My boyfriend and I love Thai food (or what we thought was Thai food before we actually went to Thailand), so we figured learning how to make the dishes we enjoyed would be a good idea. And it was.

Cooking in Krabi Town

Spring rolls and papaya salad!

We decided to make a stop in Krabi Town on the way to Khao Sok National Park, but our one night stay turned into three (what can I say, we liked the town). I happened to notice a brochure at our guesthouse for a cooking school and figured we could put our extra couple of days to good use. The school was Smart Cook Thai Cookery School and they offered a great afternoon of cooking (and lots of eating). 

To market

After getting picked up from our guesthouse (included in the price of the class) we hit a local market to buy supplies and learn about some of the major flavours in Thai cooking. We were taken around the market by our teacher, Bunnie (who was as adorable as her name), where she showed us all of the ingredients we would be using. We were then given an hour to wander before meeting back up to head to the school. Other than the "meat" room, which was not the best spot for a vegetarian, the market was colourful, lively and a great start to an afternoon of cooking.

Cooking

Hot and sour soup, sweet and sour veg

We chose the Daily Course + Market Tour (1500 bhat), which meant choosing seven dishes. I chose spring rolls, coconut milk soup, papaya salad, red curry paste, tofu with curry and sticky rice with mango. My boyfriend went with the same, other than hot and sour soup and sweet and sour veggies. Anything with meat can be made with tofu, which was a bonus for us. 

There was only three of us in the class so Bunnie could easily make the rounds and help, and we all had a great view of when she was showing us something. We started with soup and salad, then onto spring rolls, curry paste, curry tofu and then dessert. I was insanely full afterwards, as you can imagine. The food was easier to make than I thought, but since Thai cooking is done so quickly at such high heat, as long as you have all of your ingredients on hand and prepared, getting it right is doable for most cooking levels.

We were given a cookbook at the end of class, which I can honestly say I've used a lot since being back. My favourite things to make are spring rolls, papaya salad and coconut soup. I have yet to attempt curry paste, but it's on the list!

Have you ever done a cooking class while traveling? What did you think?

Khao Sok National Park

One of the highlights of my recent trip to Thailand was the three days we spent in Khao Sok National Park. I had done  a lot of reading about it before deciding to add the park to our itinerary, and the experience exceeded expectation.

Our Jungle House

We stayed at the lovely Our Jungle House, where I had made a reservation online about a week prior to arriving. I can't recommend this resort enough -- it offers several types of accommodation including riverside bungalows and tree houses. I tried to book one of the tree houses (with no luck), but I loved our room all the same. It was just rustic enough (open air bathroom, complete with frogs, snails and other park critters), but clean, charming and full of character.  Great food, friendly, attentive staff and myriad tours that allow you to explore all areas of the park make it an ideal option if Khao Sok is on your list of must-sees (which it should be).

Lake trip

We opted for a full day tour of Cheow Lake, an awe-inspiring spot I didn't want to leave. It's touted as a must-do trip and although I try to make my own calls on where to spend my travel time and money, it really did live up to the hype. We started with a scenic long tail boat ride across the lake to a perfect swimming spot (think emerald water surrounded by limestone karsts) where you could take a dip or kayak. We were served a delicious lunch including lots of vegetarian options (perfect for us) and then came the hike to and through Namtaloo Cave. 

Caving

Getting to the cave involved a short boat ride an easy hike, but the trip through the cave itself was the fun part. First of all, it's dark (headlamps on, please) and it's full of water. So full of water that at times we were swimming through the cave (the water is also mighty cold). Oh, and there are lots of spiders and some slippery parts so athletic shoes are a must. But back to the spiders. If you hate them, you will not want to do the cave part of this tour. They're huge and they're everywhere. Luckily you can't really see them if you're not directing your headlamp on them, but knowing they're there is enough. Then it was back for fruit and more swimming before the return boat ride.

We also did a canoe trip and an afternoon at the nearby hot springs, which, in retrospect, might not have been the smartest call for such a hot country, but still relaxing.

Getting there

You can easily get to Khao Sok National Park from Khao Lak, which is a nice spot in itself for a few days. There are many tour operators that offer the two hour trip daily. While in Khao Lak we stayed at Jerung Guesthouse, a clean, friendly option right on the main road and only about a 6-7 minute walk to the beach. Khao Lak is great for avid divers (which I am not), but I still found if a nice three day stop.